single cam?

need to know all the stuff i need for a mini-me swap into 91'hatch.

[I_need_money]

I have friends that are always doing this kind of stuff, from whai I have seen, pull the plug out on the block for the oil feed on the non vtec motor, are you going to convert to OBD1? If not get some free ROM editing software and a PM6 ECU so if you want you can tune it. I had a friend that sawpped in the Vtec motor and literally had a toggle switch for Vtec, cheap and ghetto as crap but it worked. Damn he sounded like a ricer when he said that was his "vtec switch"

Remove the oil restrictor from the block I cant think of the exact location, but I think its on the side facing the firewall rite in the middle its a brass color I think talk to more honda guys on this.

Y8 (EK with d16 ex?) head gasket -OEM, MLS and cheaper (28$) than others, better than that composite crap.

either a toggle switch or a MSD window switch for you VTEC it takes a 12v source to trigger the seloniod so whatever twist to wire togerther running straight from the battery if you want to haha.

Use the a6 or Z6 head bolts there the same

get something to dump more fuel at whatever RPM your vtec will be kicking find a socketable OBD0 ECU. or obd1 conversion. that or find a Ebay afc SAFC whatever.

should "bolt on" I dont think we had any problems with water lines and vacume stuff.


I helped a friend build a cheap performance motor with a d15b short block, Y8 head (with the D15 SB comp. was around 10.0:1,intake and the wierd little factory y8 header. it ran pretty good using the thin metal OEM head gasket. surprised all the V6 domestic guys especially since it was a EK coupe, all the idiots thought it was a SI.

This would be a good bang for the buck in a CRX or EF hatch maybe with conjuction on the close ratio japanese ZC LSD tranny (good luck finding one) you could be the next busimoto haha.

2 big problems though if you keep OD2 managment to keep from buying somthing to manage the fuel with-

if reatianing OBD2 bastard ECU you need the crank sensor like my friends case. so Y8 oil pump need to go on the D15b ok, except fo the pan doest line up so you got to drill some extra holes and get creative with the RTV sealant.

same story if the obd 2 ecu is being used, the knock sensor from the Y8 needs to be rigged up on the D15 or OBD0-1 d16 whatever we found a hole that worked on the back bottom near the tranny had no problems with the sensor going ape shit here and we tried alot of places.

My friend jutified keeping OB2 with not wanting to spend the cash converting to OBD1 and or buying a AFC even though our friend jared can tune and socket ECU's I think he was just lazy and wanted his car running already

or just go ODD1 and use Z6 stuff haha maybe a little easier huh?

[I_need_money]

I just talked to my friend and he says the Y8 hea yeilds 11:1 compression when bolted to the Z6 block NICE! he also said you can bend valves after doing this so... might want to trippe check rotation and timing, maybe get a cam gear or something

[95civicgsr]

greg this should be all the info you need. im to lazy to cut and paste

part 1
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
part 2
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/more ... inime.html (http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/moreminime/moreminime.html)

[95civicgsr]

hre is another one

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27126

one has using the switch for vtec,ghetto if you ask me. and this one should show you how to wire vtec to the ecu.

why are you looking for info for a 91 hatch gregory???lol.....